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Can the degree of polishing of a mechanical watch movement determine the grade of a watch?

polishing process

Some people think that for watch lovers and collectors, they can be divided into two camps: the appearance school and the movement school. The appearance school pays more attention to the exterior design of the watch, while the movement school pays more attention to the inner qualities of the watch,TUDOR Royal M28323-0001 such as the richness of functions and the complexity of the structure. Therefore, when discussing watches, polishing is an unavoidable topic and may even be the most concerned aspect for many players. After all, how good or bad the polishing is directly affects the aesthetics of the watch and even determines its quality level to a large extent.

Polishing can be categorized into two types: functional polishing and decorative polishing. Functional polishing mainly focuses on the operational efficiency of the movement, such as removing burrs, matching contact surfaces, and grinding the axle.TUDOR Black Bay 39 M79660-0001 Decorative polishing, on the other hand, focuses on aesthetics, such as Côtes de Genève, pearlescent, fishscale, brushed, polished, frosted, radialized, chamfered, etc. The decorative polishing can also be used to meet the needs of some movements. Decorative polishing can also meet some functional needs.

From a macro point of view, we can focus on the treatment of areas that cannot be directly observed by the naked eye, including the degree of fineness and finish. From a microscopic point of view, we can focus on factors such as the smoothness and gloss of the chamfer, as well as the fineness and evenness of the grain. These can be used as criteria for assessing the finishing of a movement. In addition, factors such as the fineness of the polishing, the quality of the plating process and assembly, as well as the treatment of imperfections, can also affect the quality of the polishing.TUDOR Glamour Double Date M57103-0005 Generally speaking, the greater the degree of manual involvement, the better the polishing will be. Of course, the craftsmanship of the artisan is also crucial.

Chamfering is arguably one of the most skillful parts of the polishing process. Whether it's a cleat, a wheel tooth, a jeweled countersink, or a screw slot, almost everything that needs to be polished needs to be chamfered. Properly done, chamfering reveals the movement's luster and the interplay of light and dark. However, it is very rare that a chamfer is actually done to perfection.

Watchmakers always strive for excellence in their craftsmanship. A good movement should not only be able to tell the time accurately, but also be aesthetically pleasing. Regardless of whether the case back is transparent or not, fine watchmakers put a great deal of effort into polishing the movement and consider it an integral part of the production process. While ornate decorative finishing does not necessarily mean a movement is of good quality, a quality movement will have a beautifully finished finish to admire.